What is a bespoke shirt?
A bespoke shirt is the highest quality of custom tailoring you can get.
What is the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure?
The custom-made shirt industry covers an array of services. From personalised shirts to partially custom fit shirts and to fully tailored handmade garments. It is essential to realise the type of service you want when employing a shirt maker to get what you expect.
Partial fit or perfect fit?
Many people do not realise that made-to-measure shirts are not entirely fitted to the wearer. They are more adapted to the body of customers than a ready-to-wear garment. Yet, they still use a pre-made pattern modified with the basic measures of the customer. This is why they can be ordered online and rarely come with a fitting session or modifications advised by the tailor.
Only a master tailor can achieve a bespoke shirt. It requires numerous measurements that can only be taken by the tailor himself or an assistant that understands his technique. The reason for this is that master tailors are pattern makers as well. They will make a new pattern for every single person they work for.
No person has identical shoulder slopes or posture, nor does anyone have a perfectly symmetrical body. This is why the patterns drawn by bespoke tailors differentiate between the left side and the right side so that the shirts crafted fit like a glove. There is unparalleled attention to detail in their tailoring.
The patterns are kept on file so that they can be used again whenever a customer wants a new shirt. A bespoke tailor creates a relationship with his clients, understands his lifestyle and aesthetics to always be on point with appropriate recommendations.
Off-shore sewing or handmade local tailoring?
Not only do people get a better fit when they engage a master tailor, but the shirts are handmade by the tailor himself and his assistants, in-house, in a workshop on location.
Made-to-measure shirts are rarely made in Australia. Even though a tailor might take the measures needed to adapt a customer’s shirt to their body, the information is usually sent to an overseas workshop.
A master tailor will also offer a broader range of variety. They can provide more collar and cuff options (including length of cuffs in the function of the length of the arm) to pockets and plackets. They can design whole new models gleaned from client’s specific demands, recent observed fashion trends, historical cuts, or answer special requirements.
Pros and Cons of each
Made-to-measure shirts will usually be cheaper, faster to order and obtain, but less long-lasting and not as customised. Bespoke clothing will require more initial involvement. You will need an appointment with the master tailor to take all the necessary measurements, a fitting appointment and possible modifications. The result is of a much higher quality. And once set, you have an account for life and can order world-wide.
Learn more about our first appointment process.
What are the challenges of a shirt master tailor?
Technicalities of shirting
There are several essential elements to achieving a good fit and tailoring. Firstly, the collar must fit around the neck comfortably, with a two-finger space to stay upright and elegant without impeding your movements or constricting your neck. From there, the shoulder slope needs to be carefully measured on each side, both shoulders will have a different angle. The seams must sit on the edge of the shoulder where the sleeve will fall.
A master tailor will not only consider the measurements of your body, but also your posture and ideal resting position for a perfect fit guarantee. Your garment is adapted to you in every single way, made with the goal of enhancing your appearance and comfort.
Getting the correct sleeve length and body fit tailored to the individual requires an eye for detail. Charles takes 32 measurements to construct a shirt. You know you are getting a truly unique shirt tailored to your fit when you see the length of details that are taken into account.
Sourcing the best quality fabrics
Other elements of tailoring include the importance put on the quality of fabric, buttons and fusing used, the attention to detail and the high customisability.
At Nakhle Shirtmakers, we only use top quality European and English cotton thread to prevent breaking, fading, stretching and shrinkage. We source Italian mother-of-pearl buttons for durability and German pre-shrunk fusing to prevent bubbling in the collars and keep them looking fresh even after multiple washes.
A split yoke is utilised for a good shoulder fit. Single needle stitching and pattern matching are also part of the processes employed in achieving the overall quality that Charles has perfected over the years.
All the personal preferences of our clients are considered, and our experience lets us guide you in your choice of business shirt, dress shirt, weekend shirt and evening shirt for any occasion and level of formality.
Do you want a fully bespoke shirt?
About Charles Nakhle
Charles learnt the trade of bespoke shirts from some of the best tailors and most recognised labels in the world.
His mentor, a master tailor who approached shirt making with an engineer’s eye for precision and detail, taught Charles techniques and formulas for shaping, sizing, and grading.
Do you want a fully bespoke shirt?